Essential oils are divided into three notes. This classification uses the Piesse scale, and these notes reveal important characteristics that simplify their use in everyday life and in the creation of homemade perfumes. Notes are categories based on the fragrance and the rate of evaporation, or the duration of a specific scent.
Here are the basic characteristics of the notes:
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TOP NOTE (Head note): Light, volatile, and invigorating.
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MIDDLE NOTE (Heart note): Benefits physical well-being.
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BASE NOTE (Bottom note): Beneficially affects both psychological and physical well-being.
For centuries, essential oils have been used for perfumes, and notes are vital for fragrance composition as they must be carefully combined.
Top Notes
Top notes are the ones we perceive first when inhaling a fragrance blend. They consist of tiny, light molecules that evaporate the fastest. Their scent is smelled immediately in its full intensity, but it lasts the shortest amount of time. Usually, the scent remains unchanged for up to 30 minutes after application and can no longer be detected after several hours. These oils are often described as happy, bright, light, and refreshing. Typical top notes include citrus oils, as well as eucalyptus, basil, and mint.
Middle Notes
Middle notes are those whose scent becomes prominent once the top notes have evaporated. They evaporate a bit later and stay on the skin longer. They are perceived a few minutes after application, but develop their true aroma within an hour or two. They last for several hours and are no longer detectable after 24 hours. They provide the main scent or "heart" of the perfume, which is why they are also called heart notes. They play an important role in connecting the top and base notes and are often calming. Typical representatives of middle notes are lavender, geranium, rosemary, juniper, scents of conifers, and herbs.
Base Notes
Base notes retain their scent the longest. They consist of heavy molecules that evaporate very slowly. These notes add depth to the blend and enrich it, while also anchoring (fixing) the entire perfume. They are strong and can stay on the skin for several days. They are deep, intense, and grounding. We perceive them when the scents of the top and middle notes are already fading. This is why it is important to wait 30 minutes after applying a perfume to the skin to evaluate its final fragrance. In the base notes, we find resinous and woody oils such as frankincense, sandalwood, patchouli, and cedar.
Mixing and Balance
When mixing oils, ensure a balance of all three notes. Knowing the notes is just one aspect of blending, but it is very important if we want pleasing results in the final mixture. To prepare a simple perfume, you can use one woody oil (usually a base note), one floral oil (middle note), and one citrus oil (top note).
Use oils that already smell pleasant to you and trigger positive feelings. For perfume making, keep in mind that the perfume blend should typically consist of:
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Top notes: 5% to 20%
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Middle notes: 50% to 80%
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Base notes: 5% to 20%